Plunging the
cap at Wirra Wirra.
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The quality of a wine is determined by many factors, however, the terroir
(the interaction between climate, soils, topography) is the major contributing
factor. Selection of clones via viticultural management techniques and
winemaking also have strong impact upon the final outcome in the glass.
McLaren Vale is fortunate in that virtually everyone in the district
produces excellent Shiraz and many winemakers regularly produce exceptional
Shiraz. There are of course a regular group of winemakers who produce
on a level above their neighbours and whilst there is a temptation to
classify the producers in order of consistency of quality, that temptation
has been avoided. The main reason for this being that the area is still
evolving – with new winemakers emerging. Many of these new winemakers
are growers for major wine companies, for example Ulithorne grapes find
their way into Rosemount Balmoral. The Olivers who produce Olivers Taranga
Shiraz also grow grapes for Penfolds Grange and so on.
Over the next century a pattern will emerge as some winemakers focus
totally on producing fewer varietal wines and placing an emphasis on
one of two varieties which excel above the neighbouring wines, developing
profiles of great international importance. However it can safely be
said that there are no poor makers of McLaren Vale Shiraz. The quality
varies from excellent to exceptional.
Old Vines Shiraz
Grape vines can live for a very long time, with the oldest recorded
vine being 400 years old and still producing between 35 and 55kg of
fruit annually. The vine, of an unknown grape variety, is located next
to the Drava River in the winegrowing region of Maribor in the Republic
of Slovenia.
Australia possesses a ‘Jurassic Park’ of old Shiraz clones
which can be found nowhere else in the world – why is that, you
ask given that Australia is a relative newcomer to the world of grape
growing. European traditions are older, with grapes being grown in Egypt
and Europe several hundred years BC. France one would think would have
the oldest vines in the world, but alas no – that accolade definitely
belongs to Australia. No one can be sure who exactly has the oldest
vine, but there are several contenders. Chateau Tahbilk at Nagambie
in Victoria have Shiraz vines that were planted in 1860 – Lanmil
in the Barossa Valley claim that their vines were planted in the mid
1850’s. Yalumba too claims to have very old vines. The reality
is that there are a lot of old vines Shiraz wines planted in Australia,
with 70 year old vines being considered quite young. Where did the French
and other European vines go to? The answer is simple – they were
destroyed due to the presence of the wine disease phyloxerra. The French
vineyards were replanted with American rootstock – consequently
all the old clones that existed, including the original ones from Hermitage
where the Australian vines were first sourced from have disappeared.
The old vines are regarded as being of superior clonal type, the mere
fact that they have survived this long is verification enough as to
their superior qualities. Viticulturists who have had the opportunity
to comparatively taste grapes from old vines and vines grown on American
rootstock maintain that the flavour profile from old vines is superior.
Generally the old vines have survived without any form of irrigation
and over the many decades developed extremely big and complex root systems.
These very extensive root systems are able to withstand the climatic
variations that occur in Australia from season to season. The root structure
of these old vines is such that the vines are never moisture stressed
but rather reach a state of tension that creates the right conditions
for the development of small, flavour filled concentrates of Shiraz.
McLaren Vale is not alone in possessing these old vines, they can be
found in the Barossa Valley, Langhorne Creek and at Nagambie in Victoria.
Old vines are part of the complex matrix that gives Australian Shiraz
its particular quality and unique flavour profile.
Many of these old vines have had their centres eaten out by white ants
and survive by their great ability to withstand the variations of climate.A
Modern Twist to an Old StoryThe Australian wine industry owes a big
debt to French viticulture, particularly when one realises that the
cuttings of Shiraz were brought to Australia by James Busby in 1838.
However, negotiations have been put in place to take cuttings from 105
year old McLaren Vale Shiraz vines grown on the Hamilton Wine Group’s
vineyards to be taken back to Hermitage from where they were originally
taken. The proposal is particularly important for McLaren Vale as it
cements its position as an exceptional Shiraz producer as well as recognising
the quality of the clonal material.
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The McLaren Vale winemakers, as part of establishing
the Fleurieu Wine Tourist Centre, established a 16 acre vineyard, adjacent
to the Centre. In a normal marketing environment, it would seem an appropriate
adjunct – growing wines for tourists to admire – however,
with the assistance of top McLaren Vale winemakers came the notion of
conducting a Shiraz Clonal Trial. Their interest in Shiraz is obvious
enough – that’s the variety that seems to have caught the
International market’s imagination. The following text explains
the history behind the clones and the trial.
During the 1960-70’s these selections were virus tested by the
Department of Agriculture Plant Virologist, Dr Rip Van Velsen. Selections
that were free of viral infection were subsequently propagated in large
numbers for planting in Registered Source areas in the major grape growing
and winemaking regions in South Australia. Shiraz Clone SA1654 is probably
the most widely planted clone in Australia.
Cuttings from these vines were propagated by the Department and planted
in a replicated clonal evaluation on the Barossa Viticulture Research
Centre (BVRC). In 1973 the three highest selections were selected for
virus testing. One selection was shown to be virus infected and the
other two were propagated by the Department of Agriculture for release
to Industry. As before, for simplicity, clones were identified by a
number with the addition of BVRC to distinguish them from earlier selections.
CLONAL TRIAL SA1654
Opaque black crimson colour. Aroma of chocolate, spice and a hint of
truffle. The palate structure is a touch austere with sour cherry and
stewed fruit flavours over a distinct background of spice and blackpepper.
Fine grained tannin structure.
CLONAL TRIAL SA2626
Very deep crimson mauve colour. The nose displays some stewed fruits,
lifted sour cherry notes, which carry through to the palate. Sour cherry,
stewed fruits palate. Fine slightly firmish tannins. Fuller palate,
with very peppery back palate flavours.
CLONAL TRIAL SA1127
This is the clone that delivers the best colour. Crimson, mauve purple.
The nose is a touch perfumed with nuances of violets, vanilla and plum.
The palate flavours are very intense, with distinct blackpepper character.
Excellent length. Velvet smooth, fine grained tannins, followed by very
long blackpepper aftertaste.
CLONAL TRIAL SA712
Very deep crimson mauve colour. Aroma of chocolate, plum and vanilla,
showing good lift. The palate displays flavours of stewed fruit and
spice. Fine grained tannins followed by a spicey plum aftertaste.
CLONAL TRIAL BVRC30
Very deep crimson colour. Subtle nose, with earthy, stewed fruit notes,
with a touch of farmyard. Earthy palate, with plenty of ripe fruit character.
Very good length and depth. Soft tannins. Aftertaste of earth, stewed
fruit and spice.
CLONAL TRIAL TOTAL BLEND
Very deep crimson mauve colour. Earthy, spice, plum nose with hints
of truffle and farmyard emerging. The palate shows good weight and depth.
Moderate length. Fine firmish tannins, with plum and stewed fruit palate
flavours. Slightly warm back palate.
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