Vineyard at Clarendon, mid 1870's



McLaren Vale - the picturesque region of orchards, pastures, settlers cottages by tall gum trees and rows of spreading vines is linked to names such as John Reynell and Thomas Hardy who helped put Australia on the map as a great winemaking country. The innovation and energy of the McLaren Vale pioneers continues to this day with over sixty wineries now established within the region.

The survey of the 'rich and extensive valley of McLaren Vale' was completed three years after proclamation, in 1839 by John McLaren. McLaren was appointed as Senior Surveyor was given the task of surveying the southern districts of Adelaide. McLaren divided up the south of Adelaide into three districts - B, C and D. B reached from Holdfast Bay and extended south as far as the Onkaparinga River, it was opened to the public in February 1839. Section C was to include all the land south of the Onkaparinga River to Willunga Hill. Section D included land from Willunga to Encounter Bay.
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Section C, as surveyed by John McLaren, 1840.

McLaren, whist upon his surveying journey to Section C, 40km south of Adelaide his party came across a wide valley that members of the party instantly named after their leader. It was agreed, 'This wide valley of McLaren gave promise of much beauty and fertility'. Settlers began taking up holdings south of the Onkaparinga River by the end of the year.

Two of these early settlers were Devonshire farmers, William Colton and Charles Hewitt. The farmers bought workmen with them and established their neighbouring farms of 'Daringa' and 'Oxenberry Farm' at the eastern end of the Vale, from here came the development of Gloucester. Inquiries so far have not revealed why it was so named.

Blackfellows Well, a spring on Oxenberry Farm was the only source of water for many years for the nearby residents. Here too under a large spreading gum tree, the first church services were held using a wagon or dray for a pulpit. The venue was changed to William Colton's brick barn during inclement weather until, in 1844, the small church, "The House of the Lord" was erected, and opened for use of seven separate denominations. This little building still stands on the corner of Aldersey Street and Tatachilla Road, at the back of the former Congregational Church that was built in 1861 (now a gallery), followed by a manse (now in the hospital grounds) in 1864.

The township of McLaren Vale originally consisted of 2 small villages; Gloucester, to the east, established in 1851 and Bellevue to the west established, in 1854.This accounts for the towns long main street.
Gloucester, which was south of the current Tintara winery, grew into a thriving community. Walter Leonard purchased Lot 1 in Gloucester and built a mill opposite Charles Lewsey Lot 2, where he made wine and Brandy and conducted his business as carpenter and undertaker. By the 1870's the community included the mill, two hotels (the Devonshire Arms 1849 and the Salopian 1851), a saddlery, stores, a brewery, a blacksmith, a butcher, five schools, and later a creamery.

Bellevue began on land purchased by Richard Bell who built a little colony of thatched pug houses. He also built a hotel in 1857 and named it the Clifton in honour of his wife, nee Clift. Ellen Street also bore her name until recent years, and is now part of Chalk Hill Road.

In 1852 a group of local farmers held a meeting at the Devonshire Arms, and decided to build a Mill in Bellevue, and a month later, the foundation stone having been laid, the company returned to the Devonshire Arms to celebrate the occasion. It functioned until the 1870's and was purchased by Thomas Hardy who converted it to a winery that became the Mill cellars; parts of it are included in the present Hardys Tintara Winery. Bellevue had a Tannery, a blacksmith and a Coach stop Way station that is now the Barn restaurant, and a lime burner who conducted his trade at the rear of the cottage that bears the name today. The Wesleyan Church opened for worship in 1858, and this Methodist - Uniting Church was demolished in 1987, and in December 1988 the new church was opened. The Bellevue school established by Reverend Prior was conducted in a house near The Barn in Ellen Street.
Successful mushroom culture was carried out near by also.

Bellevue flourished for a while until the closure of the flourmill and the primary school as well as the de-licensing of the hotel. In 1882, Thomas Hardy, who was prospering from his newly established wine empire decided to purchase these substantial buildings. He converted the flourmill into a winery, used the school as a residence for his employees, the Barn as stables for his workhorses, and re-established the Clifton Hotel as a wine and refreshment inn. He changed its name to the Hotel Bellevue and regained a license after some renovations. The hotel was later named the Hotel McLaren amid some opposition from the local community.

Approximately 4 kilometres to the southeast of McLaren Vale lay a pug cottage on the estate known as Wirra Wirra. This property eventually became the home of Bob Wrigley who by 1895 had planted 124 acres of vines and a few years later opened wine cellars. Nearby, a Wesleyan chapel was opened on 4 June 1854 and was given the name Bethany Chapel. Other pug cottages were established which gave rise to the recognition of Bethany.

About 1.5 kilometres to the north of Bethany is the settlement of McLaren Flat. Evelyn Pitfield Shirley Sturt took up a section on 20 November 1839 and held it until 1849.

Clinging to the foot of the hills 2 kilometres from McLaren Flat is the hamlet of Beltunga, whose houses were mostly built at the instigation of Richard Bell, founder of Bellevue.

To the north of Beltunga lay Seaview, the property that loomed so largely in the lives of the surrounding settlers that gradually its name was adopted for the locality. Originally owned by Mr Luney it passed into the hands of a Mr Ryan, succeeded by Mr Chambers, thence OK Thomas, FR Thiele and finally to Southcorp Wines.

Close to Seaview lays the Kay property originally known as Hope Vineyard, named by Mr George Manning when he planted his second vineyard south of Adelaide in 1855. The cuttings for this vineyard were obtained from Reverend Thomas Quinton Stow thus ensuring that the founder of the congregational church in South Australia also unwittingly became a key instigator in the propagation of McLaren Vale's flourishing vineyards. Another old home in this locality was Amery, which was built by Richard Baker Aldersley. In 1890 the property passed to the ownership of the Kay family. Vines were planted and a cellar built on the same lines as the model exhibited by JG Kelly at the Chamber of Manufacturers Exhibition and utilising natural gravitation. The winery was first used in 1895 when 2000 gallons of wine were made.

Thus Bethany, McLaren Flat, Hillside, Beltunga and Seaview completed an encirclement of Bellevue and Gloucester, which starting to lose their separate identities. Halfway between them Thomas Colton built Sylvan Park in 1858. He became resident magistrate and a prominent figure in public affairs forming a link between the two villages. As the names of outlying hamlets fell into similar disuse, the settlements along the main road gradually became known as McLaren Vale, it was forgotten that this had been John McLaren's name for the whole valley.

In the history of South Australia it has often happened that custom has verified the names given to places by early settlers, and so it emerged that 'McLaren Vale' became known to the Lands Office as a private town until 1923. In that year Mr CE Pridmore applied for a transfer of the portion of section 156 in the township McLaren Vale. All previous transactions for that locality were designated as in the township of Gloucester in McLaren Vale.

From the 1920's McLaren Vale continued its steady growth with increasing reliance on the wine and brandy industries and exports to the United Kingdom, particularly fortified wines. This trade continued to prosper up until the 1960's except for the period 1940 - 1945 during World War II. During the 1970's increased domestic consumption of wine and changing preferences in wine styles cause significant restructuring within the region and such changes have continued into the 1990's.
Reference: www.visitorcentre.com.au

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An often quoted saying in respect of family owned businesses goes along the lines, "The first and second generation establish the business, the third ensures that it prospers, the fourth oversees its inexorable decline". Quite often this has been the case in Australian vinous history. Enter Chester Osborn, whose whole lifetime has been devoted to ensuring that this will never occur at the Osborn Family’s d’Arenberg winery.


Winemaking, Chester Osborne.

Since his return in 1985 Chester has not looked back. He took over the reins as Chief Winemaker at d’Arenberg the same year, rejuvenating the cellars and 19th century vineyards.
Chester is responsible for all winemaking operations including on site bottling, vineyard supervision, grape grower liaison and almost anything else that comes to mind.
Chester often works in conjunction with his father d’Arry, who recently embarked on overseeing his 60th vintage, and can rely on Winemaker Phillip Dean, his assistant Marg Bailey, Cellar Manager Kym Kendrick and Production Manager John Ward, and their teams in his absence.


d'Arry Osborne.

d’Arenberg produce several Shiraz wines, all with rather odd names. Two of the most popular include "The Footbolt Shiraz" and "The Dead Arm Shiraz"
The Dead Arm Shiraz is one of the ‘flagship’ wines at d’Arenberg – the very best Shiraz from one of the oldest producers in arguably the best Shiraz producing region in Australia, McLaren Vale. The Dead Arm gets its name in a fairly inauspicious way – it is named after the disease (Eutypa Lata) which afflicts some of the oldest vines at d’Arenberg from which we get the majority of fruit destined for The Dead Arm. The disease, Eutypa Lata, or ‘Dead Arm’ is common all around the world in old vineyard sites.
The disease in effect slowly reduces one of the ‘arms’ of the vines to dead wood, which then means the other arm of the vine produces small volumes of the most incredibly concentrated and highly flavoured grapes.

In 1996 d'Arenberg completed renovating the property's 19th century homestead incorporating cellar door tastings and a restaurant, appropriately named ‘d'Arry's Verandah', overlooking McLaren Vale and the Willunga escarpment falling into the Gulf St Vincent.


d'Arenberg's attractive Cellar door sales area.

Cellar Door is open every day of the year,
except for Christmas Day and Good Friday,
from 10am to 5 pm and Janice and team can be contacted:
Telephone (08) 8323 8206
facsimile (08) 8323 8423.
If you are calling from outside Australia you need to dial International + 61 88323 8206.
Email: winery@darenberg.com.au

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Above, Thomas Hardy, McLaren Vale Pinoeer.








Above, Wine Week 1946 held at Hardy's Tintara Vineyard. The festival provided the opportunity for winemakers to meet.

 




Above, the original Wirra Wirra homestead.


The original cellars at Wirra Wirra.


  
       ROBERT STRANGWAYS WIGLEY
- A McLaren Vale personality.   


From its inception, McLaren Vale's Wirra Wirra Vineyard has been associated with eccentrics. (Unfortunately there are too few about these days!) Its founder was a noted cricketer, Robert Strangways Wigley [pictured left], who having studied Law and Architecture, proved to be an embarrassment to his Adelaide establishment family. Pranks such as taking a pie cart for a joy-ride down King William Street and riding horseback through the Adelaide Town Hall were a foretaste of his later behavior. Consequently, Wigley was sent off to country McLaren Vale, where his family hoped he would remain. Wigley proved to be an industrious fellow, planting a vineyard in 1894 and studying winemaking with Thomas Hardy, from whom he received high praise. When Wigley died in 1924, he had 240 acres under vine, however, his family were less than enthusiastic about viticulture and left the vineyards to fall into disrepair. By 1969, the once thriving enterprise had been reduced to seven acres and a derelict winery was all that remained.

Above left: Robert Strangways Wigley. One of McLaren Vale's true personalities whose eccentricity is today preserved at the vineyard he first established, Wirra Wirra.

Enter two eccentric kindred spirits, cousins Greg and Roger Trott. The duo rebuilt Wigley’s dream and along the way expanded the operation and added their own brand of eccentricity.
In particular it is Greg Trott that has made Wirra Wirra what it is today. “[His] own personality and philosophy has acted as a magnet to likeminds, those who see no point in being miserable for long and are dedicated to achieving excellence through hard work accompanied by copious fun.

 

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